BONNET CRUNCH! | My Step by Step Repair method


So today we’re looking at this damage on
the front of this MINI bonnet there’s rust there’s not great access for my
tools and there’s several trims missing but stay tuned and I’ll show you all the
stages I took to take this and turn it into this Hi everyone is Jake here from first Track
Dents and welcome along for another Paintless dent repair video so today is
the turn of this 2002 mini so it looks like this vehicle has sustained some
minor collision damage on the corner here and what’s happened is that the
bonnet has bent inwards on the lower edge about five centimeters and from the
force of the impact it has created two very noticeable medium-sized dents and a
continuous crown that’s going around the perimeter of both dents as shown here there is also some light creases
underneath the bonnet and a small kink here on the lower edge just underneath
the headlight which the customer is going to touch in afterwards both wheel
arch trims sitting on the edge of the bonnet and the bumper were knocked off
from the impact now the rust isn’t a concern here for
the customer as he is going to deal with that when the repair is complete
fortunately it’s covered up by the Wheelarch trim. Okay let’s dive into this
repair okay so first I need to remove the clips that held on the plastic wheel
arches as I need to use these later the front clip has seized up with rust so I’m
using a welding clamp to hold the back insert whilst I remove the nut on the
inside the other clips come off quite easily with a trim clip remover but you
have to be careful with these clips are brittle and can break easily by offering
up the wheel arch trim we can see how far the panel is out of alignment now this is the roughing out stage I
first warm the paint with a hot air gun to prevent any paint from cracking. As
the bonnet frame is quite weak in this area I am able to use my two-pound
hammer striking my aluminium knockdown with a large rubber tip on the end which is enough to move the frame back into its original position
I then use the same knockdown to straighten the lower edge Now the customer hasn’t ordered new
trims yet but luckily the old ones were still available and only had minor
scuffing on them so I could use these for checking the
alignment so I’m happy with the alignment so time to move on to the next
stage as there was restricted access getting
behind this dent, glue was really my best option because of the age of the car I
checked the condition of the paintwork on the bonnet to see if it had any
previous paint repairs I was happy that it still had a factory finish although
just to be sure I did a glue pull test on an area that was not exposed to see
if the paint was up to the job thankfully it passed the test so I was
happy to proceed so I started off using some of the
largest tabs I have to try and pull up these two main low areas, now glue pulling
can be a very slow and repetitive process so you have to be patient and
stick with it, and no pun intended! Now whilst waiting for the glue to dry
on this dent I use one of my A-1 small hand tools to gently lift up this crease
bodyline feature this will soften this area and help the tab pull the dent out
more effectively so as the dent is reducing, some are some of the
sizes of the tab being used. I’m now moving towards a more rigid tab to work
more effectively. Now when you get good adhesion with a tab that has a crown
around it it’s a good idea to pull on the glue tab giving it some direction
while gently tapping down the Crown’s around it. this will help bring up the
dent more evenly and reduce the cleanup time at the end so I just want to give you a brief
overview of why glue pulling is used, So primarily glue pulling is used on panels
where there is little or no access to the damage behind, exactly like the MINI
bonnet that we’re working on today but it’s also great on roof rails, rear
quarter panels, sill panels and any panel restricted due to any internal frame
work, although it’s use a lot more now on much bigger dents before going in with
the traditional PDR tools this is because glue pulling can give you a much
smoother pull and reduce the amount of cleanup time at the end of the repair so
in front of me I have a selection of tools that I use to carry out my glue
pull repairs, so the glue sticks here generally work in different environments
so some of the glue sticks work better in winter environments in the cold
environments and some glue sticks work better in the hotter environments like
summer time so the glue tabs come in different shapes and sizes some of them
are quite flexible some of them are quite rigid some of them have a textured
face on the surface and some of them are quite smooth, now the glue gun here is
used to apply the glue to the blue tab the slide hammer is used to pull on the
tab to remove the dent the tap down here is used to remove any high areas and the
alcohol solution here is used to clean the panel prior to using glue pulling and
also it’s great for removing the glue from either the tab or the panel once
the glue pull has been achieved. So that was a brief overview, so let’s get back
to the repair So as you can see we are making
significant progress, now I need to tap down this little outward crease sitting
at the top of this curved feature it’s quite a tough little crease so it needs
a lot of force to move it, now we can move on to the other dent here at the
front edge of the bonnet. I’m using one of the larger flexible tabs here and
mixing it up with a smaller one just below it to make up the total size of
the dent. So it certainly reduced the size of the
dent but there is plenty more work to do so I’m sticking another small rigid tab
into the dent to try and bring up the last little bit . Now good tip here is to
try and leave the glue on the panel as it will make life much easier as trying
to remove the glue off the tab can be more difficult especially if the tab has
grooves or small holes in it like the ones I’m using here, however when using
the smooth tab, the glue does come off much easier. Now to save time
I’ll finish with the glue pulling and I’ll lift all these small lower areas up
later. So before I get into lifting up all the small indentations I first need
to tap down all the crowns. first I secure the bonnet in place
using an adjustable support and a ratchet strap. Now the only real access
point is this narrow gap at the front of the bonnet so I have to use quite a thin
bar to get in behind so I’m using this bar from A-1 tools as it is perfect for
getting through this narrow gap without creating any additional damage I’m using
this bar in a twisting motion to lift up all these low areas any high areas are removed using my tap
down tools. The damage is almost all out now, there are just a few micro lows here
and there to lift up and a few more crowns to tap back down luckily from the repair process earlier
it opened up a little gap on the side of the bonnet here which allows me to reach
in and fine-tune any low areas higher up on the panel so finally to check my progress I offer
up the original wheel archt trim to check everything lines up like it should it’s time now to polish off all the
minor scratches and any marks left behind from the PDR process. Now this
little crease is straight again the customer will touch it in with some
silver touch-up paint afterwards. So after removing the bonnet support, the
last thing to do was to put all the trims back on the car, to check out the final
result so once again thanks for coming along on
this repair I really hope you found my repair process interesting if you want
to see more videos like this then pop along to my YouTube channel and check
out the many videos I have there for you If you like the video be great to get a
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latest videos, well that’s it for now, thanks for watching and I really hope to
see you all on the next video!

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