FIXED in 3 STEPS! | NO Paint NO Filler!


Today I’m working on these three dents
at the top of this Hyundai i10 tailgate without using any filler or paint I’ll
show you all the steps it took to turn this into this Hi everyone its Jake here from 1st
Track dents and welcome along for another paintless dent removal video so today
we’re looking at the tailgate on this 2017 Hyundai i10, so looking at the
panel here there are three main areas of damage, now to remove one dent on its own
it takes a tremendous amount of skill and a lot of patience but to remove
three dents so close together is going to be even more difficult so I’m going
to show you my preferred method of how I would carry out this type of repair but
first let’s take a closer look at this damage so let’s pan across all of this damage
and look first at these two minor dents on the right hand side the dent furthest
to the right is a small singular crease whereas the second dent to the left of
this one is slightly more complex and looks like a couple of sharp impressions
in one complete dent this dent has pushed the bodyline line upwards as shown by
this red line creating an upward crease on top just in front of the rear glass
so moving back out to the largest of these three dents here on the left we can see
that this dent is much more complex than the other two it has a crease that
branches off in what looks like five directions as shown here in red this
dent also has a crown surrounding the entire perimeter as shown here in yellow
so the next stage is to remove the internal trim to check the access from
behind so this is a fairly easy trim to remove
inside the handle area here there is a single Phillips screw which has to be
removed once this is removed it allows me to easily pop off the internal trim so looking inside this tailgate you can
see there’s plenty of access for my tools
however I’ve decided to try and reduce some of this damage first using some
glue pulling. so before I can glue pull, I need to
clean the panel with an alcohol solution to ensure good adhesion with my glue
tabs so first I’m going to stick some medium type glue tabs in this larger
dent to draw some of the sharper areas up I’ve also stuck a couple of black ice
tabs to the smaller dents here on the right of the panel so using the slide hammer to pull on
the glue tabs which helps to pull the dents out then to remove the taps from the panel I
use my alcohol solution so for the second round of glue pulling I’m sticking
some more of these black ice tabs on the panel these tabs you don’t have to
wait too long before you can pull, I pull them just as the glue has set but is
slightly tacky again I use the alcohol solution to remove the tabs in any glue
residue from the panel. Now I need to address some of these high areas where
the glue tab has pulled the metal up slightly too high this is normal when
trying to pull up sharp dents as the surrounding soft metal is pulled up
higher than the centre. After tapping down these high areas it’s
time for another round of glue pulling again I’m using the black ice tabs once the glue pull has been achieved the
tabs and the glue are removed from the panel and any high areas are knocked back down. so before I go in with the PDR bars I
first need to stabilize the panel so it doesn’t move around with the heavy forces used when pushing the dent out, to do this I use my support prop in
conjunction with my ratchet strap although the glue pulling did pull up
some of these low areas I decided that it would be more efficient and quicker to
go behind with the PDR bars, glue pulling is great don’t get me wrong but
continuing with the glue pulling would have added more time than was needed on to this
repair. So for nearly all of this repair I’m using this bar from Ultra Dent Tools
called a Bendable Johnson and I’m starting off by using a nylon tip. I’ll
link this tool below in the description. I’m using some heat here to soften the
paint so that it doesn’t crack from the pushes behind so I’m lifting up the low
areas with my tool tip and I’m moving around in what looks like random
movements but to me I’m actually pushing this dent up in a motion that will bring
this dent out cleanly. Some parts of the dent will come out higher than the level
of the panel but by using my nylon tap down, I tap these areas down and start
the pushing cycle all over again until I’m happy that the dent is roughed
out enough. For now I’m happy with this first dent,
time to move on to the adjacent dent. As before heat is important here as this
dent will need some heavy pushes particularly on the top body line. As the
top body line is moving back into position it allows me to tap back down
the upwards crease just in front of the window glass. I had to spend quite a bit of time on this dent as some of the metal was very tight and difficult to push out. Okay so I’m happy that this dent has
come out enough, now we’re going to move on to the larger and more complex dent.
So when I have dents so close together on a panel like this I like to use a
three-step process to remove them, now this is a diagram of the dents that
we’re working on today, this is the largest of the dents A and B and C are
the smaller dents and the edges of these dents we have these crowns here. Now
because of the way metal moves if you were to try and come in and push up each
dent perfectly before moving on to the next end you’ll start running into
problems this is because as soon as you push up the first dent and get it out
perfect and move on to the second one this will have an effect on the first
one and so on and so forth for the third one affecting the second one and you’ll
find that you just keep going around in circles getting nowhere and the job will
take so much longer so with the three-step process that I use step one
of the process is where I push out each dent to about 80% using a mixture of
pushing, tapping down, glue pulling etc I don’t spend a lot of time on this step
and you’ll notice that there will still be some high areas on the panel step two
is the blending process this is where we use a mixture of blending hammers or
various knockdowns to smooth out all the uneven areas on the panel. At this point
the panel will be relatively straight but there will be some texture to the
panel, this is in the form of micro highs and micro lows that will need to be
addressed, So for this we’ll use some very sharp tools and very sharp tap
downs in step three which is the fine detail step and we smooth out the panel so that it’s nice and straight again.
Well I hope that explains my three step process but now let’s get back to the
repair… So after the glue pulling, I was only really
left with this low area here and a few small indentations around it so I’m
using my nylon tip to lift this area up this dent is very stubborn so it needs a
lot of manipulation in the form of lifting up and tapping back down again.
So as you can see the dent is now reducing to lots of small dents which
would have taken far too long to remove with the glue pulling. So here I’m
changing to a nylon tip to bring up some of the smaller sharper areas that have
been left behind from removing this large dent. I’m moving my position all around the
damage to blend the lifted metal together and to make sure the panel
looks level from all viewing angles. So here I’m happy with the blending
process so far, now it’s time to get on with the fine-tuning. This is the stage where the tools become
sharper as we only have all the little micro lows to lift up. This is probably
the longest time spent on the repair because it is a painstaking task which
needs a huge amount of accuracy and a tremendous amount of patience. You don’t
just have to be accurate with your pushes, you also have to be very accurate
with your tapping down too, because I’m working on such fine detail for this
part I always like to make sure my tap down is as sharp as a pin so I sharpen
it using some very fine paper. So just as I thought I’d finished I
spotted this small penny size dent just below the badge, this was easily removed
by using one of my small bars from A1 Tools, as before I’ll link this tool in
the description. whilst removing the small dent under the
badge I noticed some overspray in the corner here which I think was from a
previous bumper repair, so I removed this with some 3M Ultrafine polish. So the last thing to do is to click the
internal trim back into place, replace the Philips screw we removed earlier,
close the tailgate and check out the Final Result! Once again everyone I really appreciate
you come along this repair of me, I hope you found it interesting and maybe even
entertaining. If you did like the video it would be great to get a thumbs up and if
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hoping the next video might be a workshop based making video, but I’ll have to see how the week goes, but for now I really look forward to seeing you all on
the next video!

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