Hi everyone it’s Jake here from 1st Track Dents
and welcome back for another Paintless dent repair video, so today we’re working
on this great example of a Mercedes SLS which has several dents down the
driver’s side door but using paintless dent removal I’m
going to show you all the stages I took to make this door nice and straight
again so there were a couple of access issues on a couple of these dents
because of the internal framework inside the door so in the mid point of this
video I’ll be showing you inside one of these doors so you can see the
construction of how they are put together and I’ll explain some of the challenges
we face when trying to access dents on the backs of these panels but for now
let’s jump in to this repair so let’s pan across this door and check out all
the different shapes and sizes of these dents so dent number one here is a very
small shallow dent just on the body line now this dent here at number two is
probably going to be the most difficult one to remove as it goes above and below
the body line panning across some more we come to dent number three which is a
single penny size then just above the body line then number four is a smaller
body line dent and then number five here is a very faint line dent which should
be fairly easy to remove now moving up to the top section the door just below
the window we have dent number six which is the largest of the round type dents
now the next one isn’t easy to see but trust me is there just in front of the
door edge this takes us up to dent number seven so in order to get these dents out the
best and least invasive method is to go down the window aperture, so first we need
to lower the window all the way down, once this has been done, next I slide I
felt backed window protector down the door ensuring that the glass is behind the
metal protector on the felt backside. I then push two plastic wedges into the
gap opening it up enough to allow access for the tools. So the first thing I’m
going to remove is this one just down from the top edge of the door. So my
first choice of tool for this is this curved hook tool with a machined flat
tip which is from A-1 tools, linked down in the description so after many attempts I
realized there was a brace behind this dent blocking access which meant I had
to opt for the glue pulling instead. I’m using some black ice tabs here with some
standard black glue and I’m choosing a tab which is similar in size to the dent,
once the glue has dried it’s time to hook up the slide hammer give a couple
of sharp pulls which will lift the dent are then using my alcohol solution which
is linked down in the description I’ll remove any glue residue from the panel.
So from this view we can see that the dent has lifted up slightly but not
evenly enough and we will need to pull again but first I need to tap down the
high areas. So for the second round I’m using the same sized tab and position in
it right in the center once again I use the slide hammer to
pull on the tab and I use the alcohol solution to remove the glue from the
panel this time the dent has come up nice and
high although the dent is still uneven so I
tap down the high areas and open the dent up slightly to make the dent much
more even in shape now I’m using a slightly smaller tab
here and taken a lot of time to position it dead center using the slight hammer I put on the tap
once more this time achieving a really nice even pull which you can see here
once the glue has been removed this is exactly what I’m after as this can now
be slowly and carefully tapped back down again using my nylon tap down I’m taking
my time to tap this high area down carefully and evenly in order not to
create any additional low areas that would need to be pulled up again with
more glue pulling as this dent was pulled out evenly and
tapped back down evenly, this dent has completely gone. Well that’s one down
only six more to go! So seeing as I’m already working down this side of the
door it makes sense to remove this tiny dent here before we move on to the
bigger dents so I’m using the same hook tool as earlier only this time the inner
frame is not restricting my access, being small it only takes a couple of pushes
and we’re done time to move on to the other dents. Due to the leverage needed
with my tools I’m laying a couple of strips of tape here on the roof edge
section just to prevent the handles of these tools making any marks or
scratches in the paint work. So I’m going to start with this dent right here on
the body line. The tool I’m using for this is my Ultra Dent 24 inch double
Bend screw on tip bar with the nylon tip I’ll leave a link in the description.
so I place this bar down the gap at the top of the door and heat the panel to
prevent any cracks in the paint from the pushing behind then using the bar I
press the nylon tip onto the back of the dent and using some leverage I push the
low part of the dent outwards this will obviously push up some of the areas of
the metal higher than needed so using the nylon tap down I tap these areas
back down level again now this dent has been pushed out it’s time to move on to
the next dent, this means removing the window guard moving it along just above
this dent for tool access. This is the next dent on the list, this small penny
shaped sized dent right here. So as before I’m going to heat the area
up to prevent any paint from cracking or splitting I’m using the same bar as
before with the same nylon tip as you can see I’m just trying to navigate the
bar so I can get directly on the back of the sharp Center, Once directly behind
the sharp low I can commit to using the right amount of force to push this dent
up again, this will mean leaving the dent slightly high but using the nylon tap
down I can tap it down level again. I have to be very accurate with the tap
downs as I don’t want to push the metal back in again. so that’s the first door dents dealt
with and already the door is starting to look much better. Crash bars, support
beams, internal framework and side impact bars, now they all have different names
but as a Paintless dent removal technician like myself they all create a
challenge when trying to remove dents that are directly behind them so I’ve
got BMW 5-series rear door here and I thought be a really good idea to show
everyone what’s going on inside one of these doors.
Now instead of trying to put the camera up inside to show you what’s going on
I’ve gone one better and what I’ve done is I’ve cut out the internal part the
framework so you can get a really good idea of what’s going on inside. So most
vehicles have a side impact protection bar like this one to prevent injury to
the occupants in a side impact collision now on most modern vehicles the side
impact protection bar runs diagonally although in some vehicles they do run
horizontally. So obviously this door strips out so there’s no window, no
electric motor, no wiring locks etc but because a lot of time we’re coming in
through the top here using a window guard these components don’t generally
cause a problem. Now the most common obstruction for me
when working on these doors is the side impact protection bar and the internal
framework at the top here, although it is worth noting that on some doors there
are internal frames at the bottom and the sides of the door too now in this
video the first dent I attempted on the Mercedes SLS the internal structure of
that door didn’t have holes like this one does, instead it was completely
blocked. So once I put the window guard and wedges in place and I put my hook
tool down at the gap at the top of the door there was just no way I was getting
on the back of that dent and instead as you saw in the video I had to resort to
using the glue pulling method instead however all the other dents on the
Mercedes SLS that fell either on the body line or just above the body line
were well clear of the internal frame work so using my Ultra Dent Screw On Tip
bar I was easily able to navigate down and get directly on the back of these
dents. Interestingly though on this BMW 5-series door the body line runs along
directly behind here, so trying to remove dents on this body line, unless
they fell in this area here or directly behind these holes would be a real
struggle. Lastly if you watched my previous video
which was an aluminium repair on a Mercedes E220 which I’ll link down
below I spoke about the benefits of using Aluminium and one of those was
weight reduction now this BMW 5-series door here
actually made from an Aluminium alloy and to show you how light it is I can
easily lift it with one finger which is not something I would be able to do
easily with a regular Mild steel door. So I hope that was some valuable information
of what goes on inside these doors but for now let’s get back to the repair! Right time to move the window guard
again and change position. I’m now placing my window guard at the far right
of this door and I’m going to move my light up into the corner here to give me
the best view of this dent now as I mentioned before this is the most
difficult dent on this door as it goes up above and below the body line. So
because this door is quite wide I’m going to be using this 36 inch Ultra
Dent Double Bend tool with a short extension and nylon tip. Now because this
dent has a sharp Center, as before I need to use heat to prevent damage to the
paint, so this is quite a large bar to try and get into this door but being a
long bar has good leverage and should make light work of pushing up the center
of this crease although I think I underestimated it slightly as it’s
proving harder than I thought to push the center. I use my tap down like before to address
any areas pushed up too high slowly I’m making progress and the dent
is reducing in size after every set of pushing and tapping down however been
such a wide door there is quite a lot of flex in the panel so some of the force
I’m putting into this dent is lost so I’m finding myself pushing much harder
to get any movement because the center of this dent is quite
strong to get the center moving I need to weaken it by breaking it down a bit
more I’ve still got a long way to go on this
one but I have at least reduced it to these two very small micro lows. Okay so I’m
switching up to my standard medium tip now to remove the micro low so I can get
this dent finished. Right now moving along the door we now
have the last body line dent to remove I’m still using my Ultra-Dent screw on
tip bar here and getting my body into a suitable position to both see the dent
and apply the right amount of leverage this dent was a bit more straightforward
to remove this only needed one round of pushing and one round of tapping down so
as I do on most jobs I always manage to spot another dent somewhere on the panel
so this one now takes the total amount of dents up to 8 so as before with the
internal frame issues this high up in the panel to remove this dent I had to
use the Glue Pulling. So now all these dents are removed, it’s time to check out
the FINAL RESULT! Thanks again everyone for coming along
on this repair, It’s a real shame to see dents on such a nice car like this, so it
was an absolute pleasure restoring this car back to showroom condition, without
the need of any filler or paint. Well if you liked the video be great to get a
thumbs up and if you aren’t subscribed already click that subscribe button and
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latest videos. Thanks for watching and I’ll see you all on the next video


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